pic.twitter.com/KMKHHrMvYu. I’ve been experimenting with ergonomic set-ups and the wonders of mechanical keyboards, and so I decided to build my own! Recently I wanted to change up my keyboard situation because I wasn’t entirely happy with my current ones. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. The silver lining is that I get to try out the DFU bootloader, and future proof half of my keyboard with a USB C-type port; the obvious downsides are cost and the need to have 2 types of cable should I ever choose to swap the master micro-controller over. from $159.00 TOFU65 Custom mechanical keyboard DIY KIT. I spend a lot of time at my desk typing on a fixed board and so I’d like to mitigate the long-term effects of RSI. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. This build guide is exclusively for Rev. Next I had to consider the aesthetics of the board, notably by choosing a switch plate. On one hand I wanted something practical with no flex, but on the other hand it had to look nice (as all custom boards must!). The plan is to design and write my on Space Cadet QMK driver with Greek, logic, and LISP-inspired layers. I wasn’t a fan of this design as it already had many of the components pre-soldered on. This build is specced out as follows: Lacquer the unfinished copper on the switch plate. An alternative was the Helidox design which solved this problem, however I was not keen on the exposed boards on top. A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. The last of the switches, it's looking good! They top a great build! For Rev. The board (sort of) works and is pleasant to type on however there were several problems during the build and plenty of room for improvement. Includes PCB and various components 2x Pro Micros TRRS Cable PRINTING: Print the bases upside down and turn on supports (supported bridges as well if needed) so that the cutouts for your ProMicro and TRRS jacks … A Newbie's Guide to NS Iris Online Are you completely new? Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. While I loved some features of both, I decided for various reasons that neither quite suited my needs. In the end I installed qmk toolbox and let that do the work. 2u PCB-mount MX stabilizers(optional) 8. I’m still missing a few parts, the most important of which are the spacers between the plate and the underside of the case. I’ve been experimenting with ergonomic set-ups and the wonders of mechanical keyboards, and so I decided to build my own! Case for each side of an Iris Keyboard kit (built/tested with v2.6 PCBs) Features a thick integrated switch plate and a base that provides a 6 deg incline. I only have a week to build this board and any related components, such as firmware. TRRS Cable 4. So some of the components such as the PCB will likely come pre-made to make this build possible. To lacquer untreated Copper you need the following: I had one of these to begin with. This had long lasting effects as I couldn’t restore the copper to a patina-free point. However you choose to play Isis, The SMITEFire community will help you craft the best build for the S7 meta and your chosen game mode. This process was repeated on the other board (flipped over). Next I tried 99% strength Isopropyl alcohol which was much better at removing bad lacquer, cleaning the copper, and leaving no residue. This simple test caught a few dud LEDs, and gave me an idea of how bright these diodes were. Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard Build A blog about my experience building my first split mechanical keyboard. There are a number of options for the firmware powering the ErgoDox keyboard, each with their own sets of features and options. I went with copper after settling on an industrial (but not quite cyberpunk) look. The open design means the switch mounts are exposed however, so the board has a noticable clack when used. Lost in what to do next? I've elaborated on and generalized this information to make it easier to use. Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. Placing the resistors in the correct spots. This is a guide to most, if not all, of the random questions new players will have when they first join Iris! The switches supported through-hole LEDs which needed to be mounted and soldered in the same way as the resistors. 54-56 Switches (MX, Alps, or Choc) 6. Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. As a result I haven’t used the board, or written my own firmware for it. Iris middle layer(optional) 5. Next I tested that each of the switches worked as expected, I used a multi-meter to measure the current across them. With the components ready to go, it was time to build the board. Have tonnes of fun! The Iris Ice Project is a build of the Iris keyboard with custom made case composed of a 3D printed switch top plate, a translucent laser cut acrylic middle plate and a brushed still bottom plate. It's a sandwich-style case with cutouts to accomodate the USB jack and the TRRS jack. Tactile clear switches are tactile and have a bump. Iris Rev2 PCBs B-stock in black and white. The lacquering process took several attempts with noticeable patina on the underside of the plates. Iris Keyboard Case. Here's my build log for it. In my previous post I decided I would build a new split keyboard, and explored the Iris. Computer Keyboard Iris Battle Gaming Boards Concept Buttons Album Inspiration. Luckily no switches were broken which is a relief as I only have 2 to spare. Despite this, I believe the build was a success by virtue of the fact the board is at work and ready to go; I just need to spend a lunchtime replacing the broken controller. They start out slow, focusing on each column and finger, and build up to complete sentences and paragraphs. Next up was the choice of switches. Note: This is an edit of the original middle layer stl from the keeb.io's iris git hub. It is the Iris from keebio. Now is a good place to note that as these boards were B-stock one came pre-soldered with a few reset switches, MOSFETs and other components (probably for testing). Finding the best layout can be a continual work in progress, but I’m happy with the layout so far. This process was repeated for the resistors too. A clean dust free area with plenty of ventilation. I’d like to thank Alastair Reid for his tips and discussions about keyboard builds over lunch in the early phases, and the many RSI jokes made in the office! Here is a quick list of useful links you may find useful: Now the research phase is over and the components have arrived, we can look at the components in detail. This does however mean I need to ensure all the components arrive before I start the build, which may take some time if they are custom components. Rotary encoders and knobs(optional) Varmilo VA108M RGBY 108 Key Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches $ 155.00 $ 145.00; Sale! IRIS is an integrated hardware and software room acoustics measurement system developed by Marshall Day Acoustics. I had some trouble with this due to some avrdude related issues using an incompatible version of gcc to compile the key-mappings. Welcome to NS Iris! The (almost) finished Iris keyboard and a Logitech M570 trackball mouse. My vortex race 3, rocking cherry MX clears and a granite keyset as standard. I am largely happy with the result however as there is a beauty in uniqueness of the build and the memories that come with it! 4.) I settled on a metal plate as this would stabilise the typing surface and the mount onto which the PCB was fixed. Iris 2 should then be able to communicate properly with this MIDI device, and you should hear audio playback when playing a file in Iris 2 using your keyboard or MIDI device. Fortunately we have a maker lab at work stocked with the latest and greatest in technology from laser cutters to 3D printers and so resourcing the tooling shouldn’t be an issue. This will help with accessing these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing. I’ve been using a Vortex Race 3 as my daily driver which partially bridges the gap with programmable macros, bindable keys, and stock layouts that make typing more efficient; however it is not fully reprogrammable to the n-th degree. Admittedly I could have spent more time considering the ergonomic, stylistic, and practical matters but I’m leaving that to further work. Next you must apply the lacquer consistently across the plates, making sure the plates are flat so the lacquer doesn’t travel to one side. I had never lacquered anything before, let alone a copper surface that is very sensitive to patina. *Please note that the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow in response to notes you play on your MIDI keyboard. This caught 2 dud LEDs and no dead switches however 2 LEDs broke later in the build sometime between soldering and testing the boards. It was encouraging to see a graph of my WPM rate steadily return to a normal level. I would learn more about the fundamental components of firmware and driver get to design a board from the ground up. The result was a bubbly and inconsistent finish. Instead I went for the Iris which struck a sweet spot between utility and size as well as having fashionable designs around. Overall the build was a success with caveats. Buyer's Guide Dads ... AZIO’s gorgeous Iris keyboard is inspired by vintage cameras. With the holiday season bringing many discounts on electronics, it is the best time to build your own custom PC. Next I tested that the micro-controllers were not dead on arrival and installed the firmware. by canderson. Pictured is the final look of the board, and the USB cable with a broken header on it. Firstly, my custom keycaps were shipped from America and consequently got stuck in customs for 2 weeks. This involved cloning the firmware from GitHub, and later QMK toolbox. Iris PCBs (this item) 2. Let’s look into the iris PCBs first to set the stage on why I went with this form factor. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. Realistically switch choice should have governed the choice of switch plate and PCB, and in the next build it may, but for the first build I wanted something familiar. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. The Ergo family seemed to be slight too big / too much going on for me; this would increase finger travel time when working. Taking Stock of Anomalies with F# and ML.NET. Item Contents 1. I ran a small local GB from the australian keyboard discord server in May 2018 which went fairly smoothly. Popular switches at the time included Zealios v2, Holy Pandas, Kailh Box Royals, or variations of Alps. 4 Keyboard with 54 keys. Mount the switches onto the plate and PCB. The choice of switch will likely have an effect on the switch plates I can mount them to, the PCBs that support them, and an onset of other side effects for the build (such as build height, usable keycaps, and more). When fitting the keycaps the USB header snapped off. As a bonus, I’ve included a couple build process images, shown in reverse chronological order. These are my supplemental pictures and notes to that. When choosing a split I had plenty of choice including the Ergodox, Iris, Let’s Split, Helix and more. It’s important to solder switches into the main corners of the plates and mount the PCB first so that you have a stable surface to solder the rest on. Finally the micro-controllers were soldered onto the new headers. I wanted a profile that could help me navigate to the home row, whilst having a quality sound and feel that wouldn’t distract me at work. I also soldered on the micro-controller headers at this point. Once all is said and done this build was largely component based. Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. Clickly blue switches have a bump and a moving jacket that makes the click. What followed was a few months of designing and testing a new tenting system to mod onto the iris case files provided by keeb.io (original seller of the iris keyboard. Now that the small components were soldered on it was time to mount the switches. 3/4 To get a consistent fold, I used the acrylic base as an edge against which to fold the components over. 2 and Rev. Feel free to email me if you have any questions using [email protected], This site was built using Standard keyboards force your hands to a small fixed-point of the table when working, and this is not a natural position for your hands. My key switches for my custom mech build have arrived, thanks @ZealPC! I am yet to try a smaller (40-50%) board, such as the planck, but my suspicion is that this won’t be good for my large hands. For those who might be interested doing a build themselves, keebio provides a thorough Build Guide. Before fitting the full set, I quickly assembled the other switch plate to see if it had the same problem, luckily it didn’t. Also featuring possible micro-controllers for the next build. Posted on 2019, Jun 16. Just solder in your switches and you're done! The choice of PCB informed the rest of the design and in particular the switch plate. This seems like a general solution to the fixed-point problem and there are several builds out there that do this well. PARTS: Iris PCB kit. With all things said and done this project took quite a lot longer than I had planned. This guide can also be used for the Nyquist Rev. Layout of the components at the start of the build. Keeb offer multiple kinds of PCB but their most recent incarnation, the Rev 3, was the only one in circulation. In this blog I’ll talk about my experience building my first mechanical keyboard. Build your own mechanical keyboard, starting here! Ideally the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed but that wasn’t supported in the rev 2. It measures in volume somewhere between the muted thunk of cherry MX clears and the thinner click of MX blues. That is, using spare Arm powered micro-controllers, custom wiring, custom cut cases, and bespoke firmware. 2 Build Guide . After futile efforts to recover the micro-controller, I ordered an Elite-C from SpaceCat design. Iris Rev4 Build. I assumed all parts would be provided, but some parts were not: I missed the reset button and two four-pin headers for the OLED screens. It’s worth checking at this point that you haven’t got any dry joints which may cause your board not to work later if the contacts aren’t connected. Look no further! They’re not necessary, but nice to have. In these cases it's good to add more solder if you can. Vortex in a glamour shot. QMK. At this point I used a heat gun to remove the headers and fit some smaller ones which ruined the finish in the process. Here's case design files for the Iris. Gifs sourced. According to the internet white vinegar and salt is meant to be quite effective at removing patina however I found it was far too aggressive at removing the top layers of copper. This was muted to a degree by rubber O-rings under the keycaps, however the sound is still prominent and I’m not convinced I’m a fan just yet. I’m not sold on the idea of using green LEDs to give an ‘oxidation effect’ as it contrasts too heavily with the copper, silver, and brass parts. I have used several non-standard boards with different mechanical switches including my Vortex (MX Clears), a Roccat Ryos MK Pro (MX Black), a Filco Ninja Majestouch 2 (MX Brown), Apple Magic keyboard (Butterfly switches of doom), a Das model S (MX blues), and others. At this point it’s day 5 of the build and the end is in sight! I’d like to thank Yiangos Yiangou for his help in sourcing the Iris PCB B-stock which is now out of circulation, and for his advice to look at laserboost for switch plates! This was noticeable when mounting the micro-controllers above LED solder points as I had to solder this whilst keeping the mount straight at a fixed height. Iris kit with Kailh low-profile switches and keycaps. I've included the original for you to use if your build area can handle it. Hope this wall of text is not too much This guide is split into several sections. Load Iris 2. Additionally the plates dried outside during one of the hottest summers on record and so the plastic layers cracked several times. ... and to save AZIO having to build full and tenkeyless versions of the same device. I tend to prefer tactile switches with heavier actuation forces such as the Cherry MX clears. Below is the current iteration of layer definitions, using QMK firmware. You will find builds for arena, joust, and conquest. Here's an inventory of what I bought during the build process: pdf. To lacquer Copper you must first clean off any dust or dirt using something that doesn’t leave a residue like Isapropyl Alcohol. iris keyboard. For my first build this board represents a success. In the past few months, I built an Ergodox and Planck keyboard. USB-C Cable 7. With the finishing posts in sight it was only fitting that more problems would come my way. Find the best Isis build guides for SMITE Patch 7.9. Last but not least I’d like to thank the folks in the hardware lab at work who helped me solder and debug my board. After arrival and installation I discovered an unfortunate feature of the Pro micro: the weak soldering on the USB header. I couldn’t test the actual functionality at this point until everything else was done, which is annoying but unavoidable. Learn Isis' skills, stats and more. Total key count: 54 3646×2247 iris keyboard [image source reddit] Where to Buy. I’ll cover my aims (and constraints) for the build, followed by a build log, before finishing with some comments and further work. At this point in the build process I did some research to get an idea of how mechanical keyboards work, and consider which components would be best for me. I’m excited to begin building the Iris, and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly. Do not leave it 24 hours to re-apply in hot conditions as this will cause the lacquer to flake off, and you do not want to have to clean it off! 3 & 4 of the Iris, which features pre-soldered components. The build guide on the keeb.io website is a great resource and covers pretty much everything you need to know. If you’re reading this and you know of copper tents like these then please let me know! I went with an open-side design and an acrylic base for the board so I could show off the circuitry underneath. The build itself is very solid with the copper and acrylic base; there is no flex in the boards. Next I had to prepare the through-hole diodes and resistors to solder to the board. Build Guides. As for the style, I am going for an industrial look with a copper main and metallic accents. In order to maximise the ergonomic utility of this board I would like to add copper tents (like laser ninja’s) to the board so I can vary the angle of the board; ideally to an arbitrary degree but more realistically at fixed heights by screwing into the M2 fittings. Iris PCBs with on-board controller and USB-C port. Instead I aim to build a board which is essentially cut in half so I can adjust the angle of use as much as I need. Further I don’t use most of the keys on standard size boards, and this adds travel time for the rare occassion I do. As for my lacquering skills there is plenty of room for improvement. I followed the build guide on the keeb.io website when assembling the keyboard. 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